![]() ![]() I measured the cylinders and they measured 90mm(89.97 stamped on pistons). Hey I found another number that is stamped(looks like inked) on the outside of the heads near the head bolt holes 022-101-372D. Also bring along a dial caliper with depth foot to make sure any used head you buy, has not been flycut. Make or buy a simple cc kit so you can ascertain wether a used head you are buying has been altered significantly in volume. The welded patch will probably never break.but it will expand at a different rate.making a lump that unseats the cylinder when it gets hot. Welding a cylinder head seating area and then trying to flycut back to original specs, is a recipe for a leaking cylinder. Others like jake Raby (from reading his rrect me if I'm wrong please).will tell you that once you get a burn through that messes up the seat that bad.its toast. Raygreenwood wrote:Some would say to weld it. The lack of tubes is the only difference from the 1.7L FI heads. It is a craburated bus 1.7 head with PCV tubes. The part # you are looking at have no breather pipes? They are 1.7L? They are generally beter quality than all but the very most expensive aftermarket castings.like remellle heads. The stock castings in good shape are worth too much and getting too scarce to give away to someone too lazy or inexperienced to do what you ask. If the shop can't do teh above listed things without a hassle.leave. Porting, port matching and flycutting to adjust compression are all options on the side. Tell the shop that is what you want done. Have them tested for cracks, bead blasted, tanked, new seats, valves and guides put in.properly.and you are done with the basics. Unless your headsare severely cracked, have been deeply flycut, or have avery burned notch in the cylinder seating area. If the shop you are speaking to cannot do that.leave. ![]() Its as simple as this.alll type 4's should have new valve seats on a rebuild.if you do not know for absolute sure that they have recently had them installed by a competent shop. Usually on fuel injected cars that were tampered with by mechanics used to working on carbs, or left poorly adjusted by the owners. Usually vacume leaks, burned or dropped valves and damage to pistons. Every one of them had signs of gross overheating. But I have dissassembled many engines for other people with dropped seats. I also work my backside off to never overheat my stuff. I have never had a single dropped valve seat. Usually from a combination of : poor fuel mixture, timing, cooling/oiling issues etc. For sure, a lage portion of dropped seats are directly attributed to chronic overheating. To this day.I do not think thatanyone for sure has definitively narrowed it down to a lack of proper inerference fit from the factory.but that is possible. They do not know enough about what you have to help you without ripping you off or tripping over their ass. So that should beg the question.if someone is supposedly saving you money by swapping your heads with rebuilt ones.what corners did they cut to make it cheaper? Look for my back posts in the forum about replacing exhaust studs. In a decent shop, what it costs to properly rebuild your heads is what it costs to properly rebuild any head.unless you are having repair work like welding done. Also make sure the breather tubes are in the heads if yours had them. Go by part #'s under the rocker shafts cast into the box. In that situation the head may be less than desirable. If they don't do many type 4's.ask a lot of questions.ĭo not let anyone flycut to "clean up the sealing area" unless there is a huge ding or a burned spot from burning a head gasket. Take them to a shop that does VW work only. A three angle valve job is pretty much stock on these engines. If you do not know the miles or history of the engine, you need seats, valves, guides. First.are ytour heads good? No cracks? never been cut? DO NOT SWAP THEM WITH A REBUILD SERVICE! You will have no idea what their history is or what has been done. ![]()
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